DAY 11 ALPRIATE

Today is St James Day.
http://www.timeanddate.com/holidays/spain/santiago-apostle
It is also the official opening of the Alberge Alpriate. I will leave today for Santarem and Tomar before I start my journey back home. This is most probably the last blog post.

Yesterday when having coffee at Maria's cafe, she invited me again to come and have supper. "We want to thank you for serving here without getting paid and on your time." What can I say? "Thank you", sometimes sounds so meaningless, fortunately when there is a language barrier "thank you" still has meaning.

Again, no pilgrims arrived. I accept it as part of my journey. Solitude is sometimes the most important part of our journey. It is not solitude that makes us depressed, it is loneliness. If you, however, are not used to solitude, which is part of the inward journey, you will most often feel lonely when by yourself. Silence-meditation is the school of solitude and the road away from loneliness.

This does not mean that I did not experience loneliness. There were times that I missed my family. The challenge is to embrace both solitude and loneliness. The more you venture inwards, the more the balance is restored.

DAY 10 ALPRIATE

It happened again, no pilgrims!

After cleaning I walked to the supermarket - fruit, wine and salmon. The rest of the day was spent reading, walking and talking to Jose in the wheelchair. At 19:00 I made the salmon with a tomato salad and bread on the side. I watched a movie on my phone and went to bed. As I said before, nothing glamorous about working in an Albergue.

There was an article in yesterdays' newspaper, "Beeld", that describes the camino very well and is worth the read.

Here the shootings in Europe are big news and constantly on TV. Africa does not exist and many people do not know whát South Africa is but conclude that it must be in the southern part of Africa. We met a number of people who lived in Angola or South Africa many years ago. No one has any intention of going to South Africa.

What I read about South Africa (the politics and violence) upsets me and angers me. Let me not make any comments about the leadership in SA. Let me, however, add, what I pick up on Facebook about the church (NG Kerk), saddens me. Looking from the outside, the church looks desperate. On the one hand it is the fight (it does not look like a debate, let alone a dialog) about gay people in the church and on the other hand all the "marketing" to get people to the Sunday sermon.

I do not see a drive by churches to get people involved in community life. I do not see I drive to be a witness of a loving God who cares about people (please take in mind this is my deduction from Facebook). I see churches who are kidnapped by  the same individualism that drives the economy and politics. It is a numbers game!

I have learnt on the camino that it does not matter whether you serve one person or ten, you serve them all as if it is Christ Himself you are serving.

(Maybe I am just depressed and miss my family. Kyrie Eleison!)

DAY 9 ALPRIATE

Fabrizio walked in at about 18:30. He is a professional photographer from Rome. I do not know why, but we almost immediately start to talk about religion. "I was Catholic, babtised, first confession and left it behind."

The conversation is one of those where you feel as if it can go on all night. From the moment he walked in, through dinner and when he woke up this morning we talked. Religion, faith, photography, politics (he tried to explain to me how the Catholic church, state, mafia and free masons are all intertwined in Italy - "That is why we are crazy!")

One thing I noticed on the Camino is how people are willing to listen to one another. One of the things we discussed is his reason for walking the Camino: "I am busy with an inward journey, I need to get rid of anger and pain." He is actually taking time out to do something about achieving real growth in his life.

How we (as Christians) have become almost obsessed with quick fixes. "Just confess your sins, Jesus is the answer!" Is this really a Biblical model for healing? Did Jesus not spend 3 years with his disciples and then another 40 days? Did God not decide we should spend 9 months in the womb and then another 9 months before we can start to try and walk?

Healing, being whole, takes time. Benedict realised this as well. In his rule, he describes how monks who erred should be treated. This takes time. As Chittirster comment; we do not want to be healed, we just want to feel better.

(I had to ask about his tattoo - same answer as all the others, difficult period in my life, decided to take action, this is to remind me.)

When Fabrizio left this morning, he said: "You must read the meditations of Marcus Aurelius. You really gave me a lot to think about."

Buen Camino Fabrizio!

DAY 8 ALPRIATE

Yesterday not a single pilgrim! It was like the story Jesus told: A man made a pot of pasta for at least four people. He left the front door open. He opened a bottle of Portuguese wine. He later sat down, sipped the wine and ate in silence. By 20:00 he realised no one was coming. He left the pot on the stove and corked  the bottle of wine. He could not go into the street to call the strangers because the Albergues are strictly only for pilgrims and the neighbors had dinner already.

One has to be very realistic to volunteer to work at an Albergue. You must be willing to clean toilets, wash floors and welcome strangers. You must not be afraid of living in community and willing to sacrifice privacy. You must be able to embrace silence and solitude. And you must be rooted! There is nothing glamorous to this work, people are not going to write nice comments in the comments book and you will not know if you made a difference. But that is what serving is about. It is sacrificial and because the God I worship is a sacrificial God, I will do all of this because it is of Him and for Him.

Yesterday afternoon I was sitting outside when Jose in the wheelchair arrives. He greets me with a shake of the hand (and so does Manual when he arrives). We start talking (Google translate!) He has been living in this village for thirty years. He has been in the wheelchair for the past 20 years. He worked in construction, amongst others, for three years in France and can also speak French.

How easily did they accept me as part of their community, this in spite of the language barrier?

Community!
This is the one thing that is lying heavily on my heart the past few weeks. For St Benedict (The Rule of Benedict) everything stand or fall with the community, community grounded in God and built on love, respect and silence. This is the spirituality of Benedict.

O, how far do I still need to journey....

DAY 7 ALPRIATE

So yesterday morning at the supermarket, the security card immediately started following me the moment I entered the shop. I had a backpack, cap, sunglasses and slops on. I was wondering if he thought here comes trouble. However, he was inexperienced. The moment he started looking at the salad prices behind me, I looked at him. He knew I knew he was following me. I ignored him, but somehow I enjoyed this little game.

Every day I look forward to see who will be my guests for the night. Tonight two women from the Netherlands arrived. I spoke Afrikaans to them. They plan a six week pilgrimage to Santiago but also Finistere and part of the coastal route in Spain. I do not know how old they are, but for their age, they look in good form.

The couple from Chechoslovakia is on a delayed honeymoon! But as with the two Dutch ladies, no guidebook! I sold the last book to the Dutch ladies. I let the couple take photos of two of the maps in my guidebook. You cannot walk the Camino with a GPS neither with a map and compass. It will get you there, but you will walk along highways all the way with little sleeping facilities or water.

What is interesting is how we became so dependant on technology. In spite of telling Ludovit where the supermarket is (500m down the road), he switched on the GPS. They are back within minutes. "What now?" "No, the GPS says there is only a small shop in the next town." I walk them down the road, around the corner and show them the supermarket.

Is this what technology is doing to our relationships? The thing(person) you trust most, you will listen to! How sad that our lives (relationships) should be so influenced by something that is supposed to make our lives more comfortable. We have become so dependant on our mobile phones and social networks. We want to tell the world where we are, but we cannot tell the person next to us how we feel to be where we are.

Technology is robbing us of not only our relationships, but one of the key elements of a relationship - emotions. Because we are loosing the ability to really communicate our emotions, we are loosing our relationships.

Make time to fast from your device, spend that time in silence or connecting with the (P)person who is with you. This is what makes this journey so exciting and rewarding.

DAY 6 ALPRIATE

Yesterday was a quiet day. Karla took her time to get going. Once a week a volunteer comes to give the Albergue a spring clean. I had some extra time and yet I could not settle into my meditation. My mind was really like a monkey, jumping from one thought to the other. I have learned over time to accept this as part of my spiritual discipline.

After I had breakfast and coffee, I walked to the next town to get to an ATM and do some shopping. I sat down for a beer and had a look at my feet. It was a bit shocking to see how hard my soles have become.

Gergely from Hungary was first to arrive. He also ran out of water and therefore first stopped at the bar to refuel. He booked in and fell asleep. Peter and his son Jack, from Scotland arrived before seven.

Peter is taking strain. I look at his backpack. "What do you have in there?" "Everything!" answers Jack, who is 18. "We come from the high mountains of Scotland and must always be prepared." Peter adds: "Stove, jacket, rain gear!" I tried to lift their pack. My response: "You need to get rid of a lot of stuff otherwise you will not make it and definitely not have fun." (At the airport the bags weighed 20 and 15 kg. Then they added another 8kg of water when they started in Lisbon. Take note - 11kg should be the max, for a woman even less - 9 kg)

Jack has just finished school. He and his father is doing the adventure together before he leaves home. "He's getting old," says Jack. "He's been helping the old man today, he carried the heavy backpack most of the day" replies Peter. I smile, their journey has just begun. They will get rid of a lot of things over the next 600km.

Then I think of my own son who suddenly became a man and I am proud but hope that we will also be able to do this together one day.

Gergely returns after he went for supper. This is a retreat for him, an inner journey. He is worried about Ansie returning to SA. He asks me directly if I have marital problems. "No, we had a wonderful Camino, but she had to go back to work." He is thankful to hear this and I appreciate a stranger's brief concern. He's off to bed early.

Just before Peter and Jack went for supper I gathered from them that they do not have a map or guidebook. I wondered how this can be, they have everything in their packs to help them survive for five days, but no map. I wonder how many people go through life that way; so much unnecessary stuff they carry with them without knowing where they are going. When things become more important...

They buy a guidebook and we sit and talk until 23:00 about the Camino. Again, I give as much information and advice as possible. When they get to the next town they will send all the unnecessary stuff back home by post.

How little do we really need!

DAY 5 ALPRIATE

I wake up everymorning wondering what will this day bring and who will I meet.

The village is so small that I start to get to know the routine of the people living around the square. The old man in his electric scooter had a stroke. He has a distinct sounding horn attached to the handlebars. He blows his horn in the morning to tell his friends he is ready for the day's conversation. They will move around the square to stay in the shade all day long.

Yesterday, after I had supper they called me over. They were outside having soup and bread, do I want some? I explained that I have eaten already.

When I was a young boy, we stayed in  Cameron steet no 7, Georginia. There was a small shopping centre in our neigborhood. Mr Zachanowich, a Jew, was the pharmacist. The greengrocers were Portugues, the Greek had the cafee. I never knew their surnames. The were just the Portugues and the Greek.

The Portugeus family lived in 5 Ave just around the corner from the cafe and butcher (whom I cannot recall at all). They had a big vine growing in their driveway that almost functioned as a carport. The Portugeus women always had an apron on over her clothes. It seemed as if the whole family worked there, but Mrs Greengrocer always looked content.

These memories came flooding back the past few days. Maria Jose working in the cafe bar wears that same apron (I am sure it must be the same one as Mrs Greengrocer used to wear!). Maria Jose always looks content and she is always serving the customers with content.

Last night I went to eat at the cafe. Maria asks me if I would like fish, beef or pork chops. I decided on the pork. She brings me the bottle of wine that I did not finish the other night! The food is prepared fresh, therefor only the three choices, the potatoes are peeled and sliced to make the chips (no chip looks the same) and the food is served on platters so that you can dish up yourself.

I write Maria a note on Google translate: "Thank you for the food. It reminds me of my mother's home cooking, I enjoy it." When I want to pay, she says I must wait a few minutes. I quickly go and check if the German girl who arrived at the albergue, is ok.

I went back to the cafe, but before I can show her the Google note, Maria passes me a handwritten note that someone translated for her: "When you want to eat more elaborate things - rabbit, chicken??, etc tell me in advance. Dinner today I offer you. I am sorry to be so but what ?? get way to talk with you." I want to pay, but she insists that I do not pay. I show her my note. She is grateful, I hug her and tell her the Wednesday I will come for the rabbit!

Back at the albergue Karla is studying the guide book that she bought from me on my recommendation (We sell guidebooks because firts time pilgrims think they can walk with Google maps or good luck).

She is 18 and still in school. She looks 15. "Your parents are ok with you walking the Camino by yourself?" Her mother walked the Camino and suggested she also does it. She wants to see Portugal and chose this route. She does rock climbing as a sport.

I am amazed at this young girl. So much guts and determination, but I am also a bit worried about her. Last night I got the impression that she did not want to go and sleep. I tried to give her as much advice on the camino as possible. I explained how the guidebook works, how to read the maps and at the end to just enjoy it. This morning she only left at eight, as if she could not get going. I wished her a Buen Camino and she was off.

And now a new day begins. The man in the scooter is calling his friends. What will the day bring?

DAY 4 ALPRIATE

(My wife complains about my spelling. Take note English is my second language and spelling my third)

The pilgrims left early this morning, which gave me time to wander off to Vialonga, about two km' from here.

I passed an old church which was falling apart, but with a door and new door lock. This puzzled me. When the band stops playing and the priest's motivational speech had dried up, there is nothing more to do or say, you may just as well lock the door. Or as Yann Martel puts it: "Only song needs to soar in a church; anything fancier is human arrogance disguised as faith." (The high mountains of Portugal)

The easiest way to ask a person about their life is to ask about their tattoos. I have not yet met a person who was unwilling to speak about their lives written in symbols and words on their bodies.

In Barcelos I met Yorck(?) from East Germany. His body was covered in tattoos. On his arm, he had a quote from Stephen King: "A black man walked into the desert and a gunslinger followed." He explained that the book had a profound influence on his life. That evening we talked about East Germany under Soviet rule and the similarities with Apartheid South Africa. (He returned home the following day. After three days his feet were blood blistered.)

In Sintra I asked our waitress about the tattoo on her arm. If I understood the Hindi translation correctly, it means "godly". She could not explain in English what it meant to her. I understood it from my perspective, as St Augustine puts it: "God became man so that man can become god again." (See Ps 8)

After a quiet day, two girls from Italy arrived at about 17:30. I immediately noticed all Francescas tattoos, not to mention all the other symbols. On her head: "Wisdom is inside". The one that gets my attention, however, is on the inside of her arm: "And if I only could, I'd make a deal with god, And I'd get him to swap our places" She got the tattoo during a bad stage in her life.

They asked me if I needed anything from the shop. Although I insisted that I am fine, they brought me a watermelon. They then went for ice cream, "Are you sure we cannot get you an ice cream?"

They ask me what I do during the day. I explain my ritual: Get up with the first pilgrims and see them off, wait for the last one to leave, shower, have breakfast, clean the albergue, study the rule of St Benedict, meditate, go for coffee and wifi, go to the supermarket (depending on time, walk around), have a beer, make a sandwich for lunch, get everything ready for the first pilgrims to arrive at 14:00, read. Supper is either self-prepared or at Maria Jose at the bar.

I miss my wife and children. I watch the neighbors across from the albergue light a fire for a late Sunday braai. I long for our family fellowship around our braai. But, it is also good to be here. The journey inwards is not over yet.

"Behold, I have graven thee upon the palms of my hands.." Isaiah 49:16

DAY 3 IN ALPRIATE

It was 17:00 with temperatures in the high therties when Rebecca stumbled through the door. It was clear, she was in a bad state. I let her sit down, take off her back pack and gave her cold apple juice. She got lost and ran out of water. Two local men on bicycles gave her water and told her about the albergue. They were born in this house which is now an albergue.

Rebecca is a student who camr for the adventure. "I did not expect so much adventure on my first day!" She is overwelmed. She finds a bed and go to lay down.

Then Mario and Pedro arrive. "Is the New Zealand girl ok?" They explained that they found her exausted along the way and gave her water. They often find pilgrims on this part of the way in distress. They look at the house and explain what it looked like when they lived here. No more chickens in the back yard!

Rebecca hears their voices and comes down to thank them. She hugs them. "Come for a drink with us." They return later with their parents. The parents are also shown the house. They are taking Rebecca to the supermarket and then for dinner at their house.

Pedro gives me his number. "If you need anything, ask for the Pacheco's, everybody knows us. Phone me if you need help. If the albergue is full, there is place in my father's house. If you need a place to sleep, just let us know."

As a volunteer you do not get paid. Food is basic (no Banting!). Your luxury is your own private room. I prefer to sleep in the little lounge area, it is cooler there. Why do I do this.....

I was thinking briefly about the expenses. What could I have bought with what this is costing me? A new car, which is definitely not my mindset, or some other fancy gadget that I do not need. (I just love Yann Martel's explenation of a car: "This tiny habitation on wheels,... is a pathetic admission that human life is no more than this: an attempt to feel at home while racing towards oblivion.")

On the camino Ansie and I often discussed the fact that an experience is of more worth to us than possessions. It is possible to live  simple and experience more. It is strange, the more you serve others, the more you are served. The more you care for others the more you are cared for.

ALPRIATE DAY 2

The albergue only opens daily at 14:00 but yesterday with the heat the first pilgrim was there at 13:00. I let him in and made him feel at home. The last two arrived at 19:00!

Yesterday was a complete different mood in the albergue. Everybody, now five pilgrims, were friendly, but kept to themselves. Except for the German couple. She is struggling, for obvious reasons, but they are enjoying and taking their time. This morning they only left at 08:30. I watched them as it took some more time for them to start walking.

Inside I started my own morning ritual when I saw the couple left their toothbrushes in the bathroom. Tough luck, I thought, but then grabbed it and started running to see if I could find them. I did catch up with them, handed them the brushes and wished them a buen camino.

After cleaning the albergue, I came for coffee. Maria Jose is friendly and kindhearted. Last night, with the Germans in the kitchen, I came to eat at her bar. I ordered red wine with my meal, but forgot that a carafe of wine in Portugues is a bottle of wine. She brings me the bottle that she just opened. I explained that I did not mean for a bottle. "No problem, you can come and finish it tomorrow", she replies. "But what if I finish it now?!" "No problem", she again replied. This is my kind of place!

I contemplate on the Rule of St Benedict. Community is so important to him. I experience something of community in this hamlet. The other point that Benedict makes (I suspect Merton picked it up from Benedict); all of life is spiritual, whether you are praying or serving, literally from the kitchen, it is all filled with the presence of Christ. Maria Jose's service is filled with a Benedictine spirituality.

Here in the square, the baker stops twice a day with his bread truck with a distinct blowing of the horn. The truck is opened and you can buy bread and pastries, fresh from the bakery.

Just another day in paradise.

(Ansie is safely back at home.)

ALBERGUE DE ALPRIATE - DAY 1

We had a wonderful time of rest in Porto, Sintra and Lisbon after walking the Camino. Yesterday I started my first day as a hospitalero, or volunteer host, at this small new albergue. The albergue is just 20 km outside of Lisbon, which makes it an ideal first stop for pilgrims starting out on their first day of walking.

Yesterday was the handing over procedure from the lady who is in charge of the non-private albergues in Portugal.

5 Pilgrims were welcomed. We have sleeping space for ten with a small kitchen and bathroom. Last night, four of us went for supper at the bar next door. We had good discussions around the table with the Italian lady understanding very little and the guy from Belgium (68) speaking non stop.

At the end of the night they want to know what work I am doing and were supprised to find out I am a Protestant "priest". I was still sitting outside waiting for the night to cool (21:30 - 28°), when two of the pilgrims came and sat with me. They want to talk to the "priest". It was a good conversation where we spoke about the difference between religion and spirituality.

Relgion is form, spirituality is function. I encouraged them to let the journey awaken them to the mystery of the presence of God.

This morning, with all the pilgrims gone, it was time for cleaning and washing. After meditation I went for coffee just to hear about the tragedy in France. Is this what religion does to you?

I am now awaiting the arrival of the new pilgrims for the day. Who will I meet today whom I can serve with a willing heart?

DAY 16 SANTIAGO

The previous night was again one of little sleep and lots of snaring. Before 05:00 I went for a shower. We were off by 06:00 and reached Santiago by 12:30.

To describe the feeling as a sense of achievement distracts from the inner experience. We therefore did not enter the cathedral, we went to get our Compostelas, the certificate in Latin stating that we completed the pilgrimage.

Then it was time to look for accomodation, no easy task. "Do you have a reservation? Sorry sir, we are full."

A woman stops us and asks if we are looking for a room. The way she is dressed, let me immediately respond: No! Ansie can't hear, and asks if she knows where we can stay. The lady explains about an apartment just around the corner. After further looking around, we decided to take her up on her offer.

She has a beautiful two bedroom apartment and rents out the one room on a daily basis. We can use the apartment as we please. What a joy!

At 17:00 we were meeting Cristian and Theresa, two pilgrims whom we met on the way. We went for sangria and said our goodbyes. After supper we walked past the cathedral. The Santiago orchestra was performing at 20:00. This was a fitting end to our pilgrimage, Chaikovski's Hungerian Dance.

This morning we went back to the cathedral. First, we went to the crib where the remains of St James are kept. I was thankful for our pilgrimage. The relics of St James reminded me again of this long tradition of faith we find ourselves in.

So again, the question is not did we achieve what we hoped for? The question is; did God achieve that which He planned for us? In faith, I would like to answer, yes! It was sufficient.

"...all these are nothing less than tools for the cultivation of virtues; but as for us, they make us blush for shame at being so slothful, so unobservant, so negligent." (Rule of St Benedict)

Johan van den Heever

DAY 15 CALDAS DE REIS - PADRÓN

Last night we attended a part of the Eucharist in one of the churches. The singing was beautiful. We slept well!

The morning started late. We only left by about 08:00 after yogurt and a banana. We stopped for a quick coffee and were on our way. The road took us again through beautiful vineyards, forests with rivers and small villages. We arrived at about 14:00.

Just before Padrón we stopped for a beer. We met two ladies from America. They walk roughly 10km's a day and stay in hotels with spa's. "Life is too short to miss out on a good massage, or even a bad one." She exclaimed. I told her I will not judge her. "And neither will I judge you", she answered. We laughed at these two as we walked away. Is there not a better way to enjoy a holiday in Portugal?

We meet so many (professional) people on the way. I wonder if they are searching for something deeper in life?

I asked Ansie this morning if she is afraid of dying? No, she said. St Benedict says we should always keep death in our sight. Death is part of life. When you acknowledge this fact, you will start to live. The energy wasted on the fear, is turned into a life force where you can focus on the Giver of Life.

Padrón is the city where St James preached the gospel of peace for the first time. Here the brother of Christ proclaimed life in Christ and here they brought his body after his martyrdom. The value of the myth is that it binds us to an ancient tradition of faith and Christ himself.

May we return, afresh to live from this faith that is love and life. God be with us.

Tomorrow it is Santiago!

DAY 14 PONTEVEDRA - CALDAS de REIS

Sleeping together in a dormitory with 40 other people in terrible heat is a nightmare. I had one of the worst nights on the route so far. My bed (bunk beds) was bent on one side. I was sweating and the snoring of the person on the opposite bed made sleeping impossible. I could not wait to get up and leave.

The poor guy on top of me was in pain and battled to get to the top bunk. I don't know if he was praying or moaning during the night, but he and his friend were out before us. We saw his feet later on in the day.

Just something about shoes, again! If you plan to walk the Camino you are going to experience all sorts of terrain. Buy a pair of versatile hiking boots (preferable) or hiking shoes. Make sure they are two sizes bigger than your normal shoe. I for instance wear a no 8 shoe. My running shoes and hiking boots are UK 10/US 11. If you do not know what this means, make sure to find someone who can help you with this. The Camino is hell when your feet pack up.

The walk today was mostly through farms and next to rivers. We arrived at 13:00 at an Albergue/pension where we got a double room in the pension for €2 more per person than in the Albergue. What a pleasure for privacy and a good bed.

The towns are beautiful. Tonight we will have a picnic on the bank of the river and hopefully get a good night's sleep.

We have two days left with roughly 45 km to go. Looking back at our previous Camino, I realise that one can only reflect on a pilgrimage when you are back home and had time to evaluate what you have internalised.

"But unto you that fear my name shall the Sun of righteousness arise with healing in his wings; ..." Malachi 4:2

DAY 13 REDONDELA - PONTEVEDRA

We were on the road by 06:45, stopping for coffee and bread. We walked to Arcade hoping to swim but the beach did not look very appealing. We then stocked up on bread, cheese and meet for lunch. This we enjoyed along the road. We took a detour for the last 3 km into town, walking in the shade next to a river.

The albergue can accommodate 56 pilgrims and is almost full. This makes sleeping a challenge! After the usual routine, we walked to a shop to buy food for supper and tomorrow's breakfast. Tonight it is salad, cold pork and Spanish wine.

We can feel the more than 300km we have walked so far. Our feet are tired and our legs feel like we are training for the Comrades again. We are looking forward in arriving in Santiago on Thursday - Dio Valente.

I was reflecting on the frustration of not being able to pray at a small chapel where we stopped briefly. The way is now more busy and pilgrims walk in and out of the chapel. I later read this from John Main, which I posted last year some time: "I think there comes a time in the life of every Christian when we have to choose decisively between the infantile prayer of the past, necessarily self-centred, and the prayer of Jesus, the prayer which is going on within us, filling us with the life that takes us beyond ourselves, a life that shatters all the fear-laden barriers that have so far prevented us from being fully ourselves. It is because we are not fully ourselves that we are not capable of becoming fully brothers and sisters to one another; that is the distancing of ourselves from our neighbour – our own fear. And that is the fear that is cast out by the experience of the love of Christ active within us".(Awakening 2, John Main OSB).

The road becomes the prayer inside of us. Every step we take, Jesus is praying within us. That is why it is a pilgrimage. The prayer of Christ is drawing us into the presence of God. It is no longer about what we want to achieve, but what does God want to achieve in us and with us.

Ultreia, Suseia, Deus adiuvanos.

DAY 12 PORRIÑO - REDONDELA

Last night it was extremely hot in the albergue. We battled to sleep. We were awake by 05:00, had breakfast (bread and cheese) and set off to arrive here by 11:00. We were thinking of pushing on but decided against it. This was the new plan, to rest over two days. So we went for something to drink while we waited for the albergue to open.

After checking in we walked to the beach/lagoon to swim but this was not possible. Back again to the albergue, showered and did the washing of our clothes.

In Spain everything is closed on a Sunday, except for the bars and restaurants. It is almost strange to find everything so relatively quiet.

I reflected on the rule of St Benedict regarding the importance of community, how everything should be done to preserve the wellbeing of the community. Do we do enough in this regard? Whether it is our family community, church community or any other community we find ourselves in, we take it for granted. And then when we are separated from it, we only realise how important community really is.

Maybe it is for this reason that when we meet pilgrims on the road with the same values that we share, we start to form a loose community looking out for one another, try to meet up in the same towns and share the journey together. This is expressed in small gestures like sharing ointment for sore feet or handing a few plasters for blisters. We will hopefully be able to say goodbye, in person when we reach Santiago. As Sarah from Finland said this afternoon, when we finish our pilgrimage  in 5 days time, facebook is ok, but it will be better in person.

DAY 11 TUI - PORRIÑO

The plan was to take a break and lay over at Tui. We then realised we can do nothing with our backpacks until 13:00 when we can book in again. We decided to walk 15 km to the next big town, Porriño.

We arrived early and enjoyed meats, cheese and bread next to the river, while waiting for the albergue to open. We are now relaxing in the small old town center. Later we will go for supper at one of the restaurants that cater for pilgrims.

Today, maybe because of the short walk, was uneventful, but also because we walked 5 km's through the industrial area of Porriño. The route is now busy. Many people are only walking the last 100km to Santiago to get the Compostela. You recognise them immediately. They have a day pack and wear running shoes.

Tomorrow will again be a short stretch of roughly 17 km. We will see the sea tomorrow.

DAY 10 RUBIÃES - VALENÇA/TUI

Last night we had a good night's rest with the whole house to ourselves. It was good to have some privacy and cooked pasta with tomatoes, cheriso sausages and cheese and of course some local wine. We set off at eight. Theresa and Cristian passed us when we still had croissants on the patio. This was their recommendation but they decided to stay at another place.

The house we stayed in belonged to an old lady, she must be well in her eighties. She was there to make sure everything was in order. She even started cleaning our boots.

We set off at a very slow pace. Ansie's feet were in bad shape. The scenery was again breathtaking with rivers and lush forests around us.

We time-traveled across the boarder from Portugal to Spain. The moment you step over the boarder, you must turn your watch one hour ahead. We met up with Cristian and Theresa as we crossed the boarder and are now staying at the same albergue. Tonight we are 18 pilgrims sleeping together.

The usual routine was followed when we got here: Book in, get your beds, shower, wash the clothes, buy food and relax. We will go for coffee later and look for wifi.

I again reflected on how religious this country is. Mary is venerated as I have not seen before. There are saints all along the way as a cloud of witnesses to guide us along the way. Crosses decorate the way. And yet, why is it that so many do not care for their animals?

I think of South Africa. We are just as religious, well at least in a Protestant sense, and still we battle with racism, homophobia and sexism (to name a few) on so many levels. Can we not rediscover the spirituality of the early pilgrims who walked these paths, whose only trust was Christ revealed in the stranger, bread, animals and in the way itself?

The mystery is Christ living in us, God dwelling in His creation. The challenge is to go and find Him, in yourself and in nature.

Tomorrow is a rest day. We will explore Tui and let the bodies/feet rest.

Ultreia! Suseia!

DAY 9 PONTE de LIMA - RUBIÃES

Just to reflect on yesterday. It was a tough day! At the pilgrims restaurant next to the albergue where we stayed, we had a good pilgrim's meal: steak, egg and chips.

Alex was again with us. He told us that he rests on Saterday, it is a Sabbath for him. I asked if he was Jewish, no! He is a Christian following the Bible. Church? No, reading the Bible and trusting it. We saw him previously on the walk reading his Bible.

I replied that the moment one reads the Bible you also interpret. The problem then is (reading by myself and interpreting by myself) 17000 different Christian denominations. I explained that I live under grace and that the most important thing for me is unity with God. The topic continued and I also discussed meditation with him. We joked about the unholy food that we are eating.

This morning I realised again, difficult topics, where we disagree strongly with one another, can only be handled and discussed when there is a relationship between the participants.

Ok, so back to today. We set off at 07:00. The morning was beautifully fresh. I was contemplating Ps 143:8 "Cause me to hear thy lovingkindness in the morning; for in thee do I trust: cause me to know the way wherein I should walk; for I lift up my soul unto thee." The scenery was breathtaking. We climbed 200 meters over 2 km's.

At the top of the mountain stood a cross. Here pilgrims place something symbolic that they want to lay down and get rid of; a photo of a loved one who passed away, prayers of petition, money?! Climbing your own mountain and conquering it is not always easy. However, when you get "there" and lay down that which binds you, is a liberating experience.

I suppose that is what a pilgrimage is about, not a walk through the countryside, but a road to enlightenment, and then (always) down the mountain back to your calling.

We arrived relatively fresh at the house we are now staying over at. So far it is just the two of us. We hope to get a good night's rest.

(Postscript: I write the blog from my phone in my second language for a broader audience. Please bear with my spelling and grammer.)

DAY 8 BARCELOS - PONTE DE LIMA

When you are so tired it is hard to reflect on the day. We walked 35 km. Most of the journey was with Alex from Germany.

It was a hard slog. Maybe my mind will be môre clear tomorrow. One thing we do know is that our boots are very close to their end - after roughly 800 km. (Go and have a look at one of our first blog posts in 2013 with regards to boots.)

DAY 7 VILARHINO - BARCELOS

We left at six, handed back the keys, had a coffee and were on our way. The morning was fresh and pleasant. Walking through farmlands was a pleasure.

(When we left, there was a pilgram sleeping outside of where we stayed. He did not know about the arrangement to pick up the key from a coffee shop in town!)

Our text that we read this morning was also the instruction of St Benedict to his monks. In the tradition of John Cassian, they should constantly pray Ps 71:11 "O God, be not far from me: O my God, make haste for my help."

As we walked I meditated on this verse. I interpreted it for my own situation. Not so much that God should miraculously give me wings to fly over the road. No, the help I required was to be freed from my own ego and become the person God intended me to be.

The miracle of the day did however take place. We had one bread bun for breakfast. On the road there layed a bun. I wanted to poke it with my walking stick. I bent over and picked it up. This bun was fresh out of the oven, clean as if someone placed it their. It was a small portion of manna from heaven. And therein lays the miracle; to experience God in the small things. The mysteries were served to us.

When Ansie asks if there is not a place where we can get a cold beer, you know we are hot and tired. We stopped for a cold beer on the tap and staggered into Barcelos at 15:00. We had to walk another km to the albergue, had something for lunch/dinner and getting ready to go to bed.

Why are we so tired? It feels as if we are running a marathon every day. Tomorrow it is 35 km again.

"O my God, make haste for my help."

DAY 6 PORTO - VILARINO

Yesterday took a toll on our bodies. We therefore decided to make today a rest day. We took the metro to the outside of the city center. This cut a number of km's which meant we only had to walk roughly 13, but with detours and taking the wrong route we ended up with 15.

The guide book is sometimes not as clear, which is a blessing in disguise. We were too early to get into the monastery, so we continued on our way. It was at this stage where an angel stopped and asked (in Portugues) if we are going to Santiago. Yes! "But you are on the wrong way!" He phones his wife, who can speak English and she directs us. He makes sure that we get onto the right road. We are stil looking for the pilgrams albergue, which is just mentioned in the guide book. We walk into the little village. The guide book mentions that the pharmacist at the end of the village is friendly. We stop there and ask for directions. It turns out that the key of the albergue is at the coffee shop across the street. It is free of charge. We get the key and directions. "Just bring the key back here tomorrow when you leave".

So, backtrack again to find a room with two bunk beds and a shower. It is quiet, we should get a good night's sleep. Then back into the village to get something to eat. At the first restaurant we stop for the pilgrims menue. The owner is more than friendly. The wine is on the house, if we want more please ask. He gives us his card with contact details. "If you need help anywhere on the route, even in Spain, please call me."

What can we say. God is good! He is merciful and full of grace. He still reveals himself through normal, everyday people!

We stop at the chemist again. I buy some flu medicine and ask directions to the mini-market for bread and cheese. We then walked to a coffee shop where the owners lived in SA some twenty years ago. We will have coffee there later and do the wifi-thing.

Tomorrow we will, hopefully set off early to cover the next stage of the journey.

DAY 5 SÃO JOÃO DE MADEIRA - PORTO (Take 2)

We set off at 06:00. We knew we had a long day ahead. The long day turned into a Comrades marathon. We spent 11 hours on the road. I picked up a cold the previous day and Ansie's hip and feet are giving her trouble.

The most terrible memory of this day is not the heat or the body complaining but the dogs! Why do people have dogs, small house dogs and keep them tied to a chain with makeshift dog boxes? We  encountered this terrible sight along the way, four small dogs on chains. The fifth one was in a desperate condition. There was something wrong with his back legs, a discharge was running from his nose and he could only see from one eye. I was contemplating the thought of taking my knife and end his misery. The owner came out as we walked off. I just starred at her.

We hardly took a corner or there was another big dog. Its owner was with him. The dog could hardly walk... I prayed that God will deliver them from evil.

When you judge, you become out of balance. I want to judge these people. What set of values do they live by? What ethical code do they follow, in their relationship with nature or other (human)beings? Sometimes it seems as if they are on the same road as we are, but they are not.

I was out of balance and out of sync! But it is in the extremities where you get to know yourself and to know God. It is in the extremities where you find yourself and God. There in the fire, in the purging, He convinces you that He is gracious, merciful and good.

Porto is big. Finding accomodation proofed to be a challenge. We could book into a hotel, but we are not tourists (remember, we are pilgrims) and our budget will not afford it. The youth hostels were full. We found a pension next to the station! Well, the bed was clean. After a good meal at a local restaurant, we were in bed.

What a journey.

DAY 5 SÃO JOÃO DE MADEIRA - PORTO

Today we walked almost 40 km. I will update tomorrow, now to bed!

DAY 4 ALBERGARIA A-VELHA - SÃO JOÃO da MADEIRA

I am still reflecting on yesterday's experience with the monastery. At the albergue where we slept (in luxury for an albergue) it was the complete opposite. We were welcomed by two brothers. The one only fifteen.

Their hospitality was overflowing. The bar worked on a trust system. You take what you want and leave the money in a open box. They could not be there for breakfast, but "please help yourself, take what ever you need, as much as you want." They trusted us.

This morning I was wondering why people do not trust the church anymore?

The evening was a wonderful celebration of divercity with lots of laughter and singing (O sole mia and the camino song).

We walked well, stopped for coffee,  beer and a picnic along the way. Tonight is Ansie's birthday, so we must celebrate. We are sleeping, on mattresses, at an institute where they care for the dissabled and people with special needs - Santa Casa Da Misericordia.

Tomorrow is a long day with 35 km to get to Porto. Tonight we will be in the sleeping bag early.

DAY 3 ÁGUEDA - ALBERGARIA A VELHA - ALBERGARIA-a-NOVA

Today's walking was better. We are now slowly getting into a rhythm. The guidebook suggested a walk of only 16 km. This however will leave us with two days of over 30km per day to get to Porto. So we decided to walk 4 km further with the intention of sleeping at a nunnery (Casa Diocesana).

We had to make a small detour, just to find the doors locked and no one in sight. It is a modern facility with burglar bars in front of the doors and windows. The water taps outside were dismantled. We decided to leave and walk a further 4 km to the next village and albergue. What an irony when we turned away from the monastery and a chicken somewhere chuckled three times.

In The Rule of St Benedict (53) he tells his monks that one of their main responsibilities is that strangers are to be welcomed "as Christ". We felt a bit disappointed, but I suppose the real question is how hospital am I towards the stranger.

The roads we are walking on are either through forests or small towns. People are friendly, coffee and red wine good and bear relatively cheap. At 12:00 we had a big plate of the day, which consists of soup, main course and desert. I had veal, but I think it was cooked veal shank with chick peas. Ansie had a wonderful fish dish (€6 p.p).

Now we are relaxing outside with new friends, talking, again, the European Union, politics and human rights. These people do not understand African politics, well neither do I!

Ultreia, suseia, Deus adjuva nos!

DAY 2 MEALHADA - ÁGUEDA

We started the day's walking at 07:00. It was very early on clear that this was going to be a difficult day. Our bodies were battling to adjust to the 11 kg backpacks.

The road was not really challenging, except for the tarred service we had to walk on. We are seven pilgrims on this phase of the journey (Finish, Italian, Spanish, German and two South Africans) with very few Albergues to stay over, one per town and private - pricey but with good facilities.

Many towns and even houses have their own little shrines. Mary and the three children from Fatima was displayed almost life sized in front of a house, John the Babtist holding the lamb in his arm, Mary the Theotokos, to name a few.

Along the way we enjoyed some grapes that were placed as an offering(?) at a crucifix. I am sure Jesus would not have minded these weary pilgrims taking a few grapes and leaving some for the next. Somewhere an angel stopped at us, handing us a bag with some fruit and cold water - grace abounds!

Reflecting on the day I think of the Rule of St Benedict. Somewhere he says that the monk who needs to go on a short trip must not eat in town. I think he was trying to say that the monk in town and the monk traveling should remain the same person. Are we the same? Yes, we are the same people doing the same thing that we would have done at home. But we are also being changed, living in community with seven other, sharing our snacks and wine and discussing the complexities of politics, religion and life.

The journey has only started and yet so many experiences.

COIMBRA - MEALHADA

So, yesterday we took the wrong train to Coimbra. After playing musical chairs the conductor told us there is no seats on the train, it is full. We are on the wrong train. We will get to Coimbra but will have to go and sit in the bar. That meant we could enjoy a beer.

My children taught me through their own travel experience to plan less and enjoy more. You may end up where you did not intend to go, but you will experience more.

The walk today was more difficult than we expected. A lot of walking was done on tarred roads. The impact on our hips were strenuous and the Comrades ultra we ran three weeks ago was still felt.

Take note pilgrims planning to walk the Portuguese route; some of the Bombeiros Voluntarios do not take in pilgrims any more, as was the case in Mealhada. After a big lunch - plate of the day - we had to walk a further 2 km's to get to the Albergue Hilario. We must have walked more than 25 km's on our first day and we could feel our bodies protesting.

As Robbie Burns reflects (quoted by Brierly) "...a now-and-then tribute to Bacchus is like the cold bath - bracing and invigorating." So after finding a bed, a shower and washing of our clothing, we are now having a "cold bath".

Reflecting on the day, we are thankful to make this pilgrimage. It is after all a journey into the self. The more you get to know yourself, the more you will know God. He is ever present; in the farmer pruning the vine, the massive age-old olive trees with new branches and in the ice cold bear!

Tomorrow a new joyrney begins. Buen Camino!

COIMBRA

Tomorrow we will tell more. I met this man at the airport in Lisbon this morning. Maybe he is saying something about our intentions.

PILGRIMAGE

"A pilgrimage is a journey or search of moral or spiritual significance. Typically, it is a journey to a shrine or other location of importance to a person's beliefs and faith, although sometimes it can be a metaphorical journey into someone's own beliefs. Many religions attach spiritual importance to particular places: the place of birth or death of founders or saints, or to the place of their "calling" or spiritual awakening, or of their connection (visual or verbal) with the divine, to locations where miracles were performed or witnessed, or locations where a deity is said to live or be "housed," or any site that is seen to have special spiritual powers. Such sites may be commemorated with shrines or temples that devotees are encouraged to visit for their own spiritual benefit: to be healed or have questions answered or to achieve some other spiritual benefit."

This pilgrimage that we are now, again, undertaking, is done in the belief that the journey - Camino de Santiago- is more important than the destination - The Cathedral where the relics of St James are kept.

The journey has begun.

Countdown to take off!

Burgos

CAMINO PORTUGUESE

My friends

A new journey will begin soon. As a matter of fact, Ansie and myself will depart Monday 20 June for Portugal. We will then on 21 June take a train to Coimbra to start our Camino to Santiago. We plan to walk 380 km in 17 days. We did no training, except to run form Pietermaritzburg to Durban, that was two weeks ago. Our gear is hopefully sorted out and the boots that we walked with in 2013 are still fine.

Why are we doing it again?

I suppose there are a number of answers:

Celebrate life!

See a new country and meet new people.

Pilgrimage.

A Pilgrimage is a spiritual journey into yourself, into God. We hope to encounter God in a wonderful new way. If He dwells in us, why then go on a pilgrimage? It is in the crossing of boundaries, our own but also physical boundaries that God is experienced in new ways. So, we hope to return with new passion and new vigour. There is so much more to discover and experience.

Ansie will return before me. I will volunteer as a hospitaleros at Albergue de Peregrinos de Alpriate More about that later, but if you are planning on walking the Portuguese route, come and stay over from 14 – 28 July. I would like to offer you a South African welcome and hospitality.

"Ultreia, Suseia, Deus adjuva nos" Onwards, upwards, God with us!

Johan and Ansie

We do not pull Christ toward us from heaven by prayer. Rather, we discover Him within ourselves. (Matthew The Poor – Monastery of St Macarius, Egypt)