DAY 7 ALPRIATE

So yesterday morning at the supermarket, the security card immediately started following me the moment I entered the shop. I had a backpack, cap, sunglasses and slops on. I was wondering if he thought here comes trouble. However, he was inexperienced. The moment he started looking at the salad prices behind me, I looked at him. He knew I knew he was following me. I ignored him, but somehow I enjoyed this little game.

Every day I look forward to see who will be my guests for the night. Tonight two women from the Netherlands arrived. I spoke Afrikaans to them. They plan a six week pilgrimage to Santiago but also Finistere and part of the coastal route in Spain. I do not know how old they are, but for their age, they look in good form.

The couple from Chechoslovakia is on a delayed honeymoon! But as with the two Dutch ladies, no guidebook! I sold the last book to the Dutch ladies. I let the couple take photos of two of the maps in my guidebook. You cannot walk the Camino with a GPS neither with a map and compass. It will get you there, but you will walk along highways all the way with little sleeping facilities or water.

What is interesting is how we became so dependant on technology. In spite of telling Ludovit where the supermarket is (500m down the road), he switched on the GPS. They are back within minutes. "What now?" "No, the GPS says there is only a small shop in the next town." I walk them down the road, around the corner and show them the supermarket.

Is this what technology is doing to our relationships? The thing(person) you trust most, you will listen to! How sad that our lives (relationships) should be so influenced by something that is supposed to make our lives more comfortable. We have become so dependant on our mobile phones and social networks. We want to tell the world where we are, but we cannot tell the person next to us how we feel to be where we are.

Technology is robbing us of not only our relationships, but one of the key elements of a relationship - emotions. Because we are loosing the ability to really communicate our emotions, we are loosing our relationships.

Make time to fast from your device, spend that time in silence or connecting with the (P)person who is with you. This is what makes this journey so exciting and rewarding.

DAY 6 ALPRIATE

Yesterday was a quiet day. Karla took her time to get going. Once a week a volunteer comes to give the Albergue a spring clean. I had some extra time and yet I could not settle into my meditation. My mind was really like a monkey, jumping from one thought to the other. I have learned over time to accept this as part of my spiritual discipline.

After I had breakfast and coffee, I walked to the next town to get to an ATM and do some shopping. I sat down for a beer and had a look at my feet. It was a bit shocking to see how hard my soles have become.

Gergely from Hungary was first to arrive. He also ran out of water and therefore first stopped at the bar to refuel. He booked in and fell asleep. Peter and his son Jack, from Scotland arrived before seven.

Peter is taking strain. I look at his backpack. "What do you have in there?" "Everything!" answers Jack, who is 18. "We come from the high mountains of Scotland and must always be prepared." Peter adds: "Stove, jacket, rain gear!" I tried to lift their pack. My response: "You need to get rid of a lot of stuff otherwise you will not make it and definitely not have fun." (At the airport the bags weighed 20 and 15 kg. Then they added another 8kg of water when they started in Lisbon. Take note - 11kg should be the max, for a woman even less - 9 kg)

Jack has just finished school. He and his father is doing the adventure together before he leaves home. "He's getting old," says Jack. "He's been helping the old man today, he carried the heavy backpack most of the day" replies Peter. I smile, their journey has just begun. They will get rid of a lot of things over the next 600km.

Then I think of my own son who suddenly became a man and I am proud but hope that we will also be able to do this together one day.

Gergely returns after he went for supper. This is a retreat for him, an inner journey. He is worried about Ansie returning to SA. He asks me directly if I have marital problems. "No, we had a wonderful Camino, but she had to go back to work." He is thankful to hear this and I appreciate a stranger's brief concern. He's off to bed early.

Just before Peter and Jack went for supper I gathered from them that they do not have a map or guidebook. I wondered how this can be, they have everything in their packs to help them survive for five days, but no map. I wonder how many people go through life that way; so much unnecessary stuff they carry with them without knowing where they are going. When things become more important...

They buy a guidebook and we sit and talk until 23:00 about the Camino. Again, I give as much information and advice as possible. When they get to the next town they will send all the unnecessary stuff back home by post.

How little do we really need!

DAY 5 ALPRIATE

I wake up everymorning wondering what will this day bring and who will I meet.

The village is so small that I start to get to know the routine of the people living around the square. The old man in his electric scooter had a stroke. He has a distinct sounding horn attached to the handlebars. He blows his horn in the morning to tell his friends he is ready for the day's conversation. They will move around the square to stay in the shade all day long.

Yesterday, after I had supper they called me over. They were outside having soup and bread, do I want some? I explained that I have eaten already.

When I was a young boy, we stayed in  Cameron steet no 7, Georginia. There was a small shopping centre in our neigborhood. Mr Zachanowich, a Jew, was the pharmacist. The greengrocers were Portugues, the Greek had the cafee. I never knew their surnames. The were just the Portugues and the Greek.

The Portugeus family lived in 5 Ave just around the corner from the cafe and butcher (whom I cannot recall at all). They had a big vine growing in their driveway that almost functioned as a carport. The Portugeus women always had an apron on over her clothes. It seemed as if the whole family worked there, but Mrs Greengrocer always looked content.

These memories came flooding back the past few days. Maria Jose working in the cafe bar wears that same apron (I am sure it must be the same one as Mrs Greengrocer used to wear!). Maria Jose always looks content and she is always serving the customers with content.

Last night I went to eat at the cafe. Maria asks me if I would like fish, beef or pork chops. I decided on the pork. She brings me the bottle of wine that I did not finish the other night! The food is prepared fresh, therefor only the three choices, the potatoes are peeled and sliced to make the chips (no chip looks the same) and the food is served on platters so that you can dish up yourself.

I write Maria a note on Google translate: "Thank you for the food. It reminds me of my mother's home cooking, I enjoy it." When I want to pay, she says I must wait a few minutes. I quickly go and check if the German girl who arrived at the albergue, is ok.

I went back to the cafe, but before I can show her the Google note, Maria passes me a handwritten note that someone translated for her: "When you want to eat more elaborate things - rabbit, chicken??, etc tell me in advance. Dinner today I offer you. I am sorry to be so but what ?? get way to talk with you." I want to pay, but she insists that I do not pay. I show her my note. She is grateful, I hug her and tell her the Wednesday I will come for the rabbit!

Back at the albergue Karla is studying the guide book that she bought from me on my recommendation (We sell guidebooks because firts time pilgrims think they can walk with Google maps or good luck).

She is 18 and still in school. She looks 15. "Your parents are ok with you walking the Camino by yourself?" Her mother walked the Camino and suggested she also does it. She wants to see Portugal and chose this route. She does rock climbing as a sport.

I am amazed at this young girl. So much guts and determination, but I am also a bit worried about her. Last night I got the impression that she did not want to go and sleep. I tried to give her as much advice on the camino as possible. I explained how the guidebook works, how to read the maps and at the end to just enjoy it. This morning she only left at eight, as if she could not get going. I wished her a Buen Camino and she was off.

And now a new day begins. The man in the scooter is calling his friends. What will the day bring?

DAY 4 ALPRIATE

(My wife complains about my spelling. Take note English is my second language and spelling my third)

The pilgrims left early this morning, which gave me time to wander off to Vialonga, about two km' from here.

I passed an old church which was falling apart, but with a door and new door lock. This puzzled me. When the band stops playing and the priest's motivational speech had dried up, there is nothing more to do or say, you may just as well lock the door. Or as Yann Martel puts it: "Only song needs to soar in a church; anything fancier is human arrogance disguised as faith." (The high mountains of Portugal)

The easiest way to ask a person about their life is to ask about their tattoos. I have not yet met a person who was unwilling to speak about their lives written in symbols and words on their bodies.

In Barcelos I met Yorck(?) from East Germany. His body was covered in tattoos. On his arm, he had a quote from Stephen King: "A black man walked into the desert and a gunslinger followed." He explained that the book had a profound influence on his life. That evening we talked about East Germany under Soviet rule and the similarities with Apartheid South Africa. (He returned home the following day. After three days his feet were blood blistered.)

In Sintra I asked our waitress about the tattoo on her arm. If I understood the Hindi translation correctly, it means "godly". She could not explain in English what it meant to her. I understood it from my perspective, as St Augustine puts it: "God became man so that man can become god again." (See Ps 8)

After a quiet day, two girls from Italy arrived at about 17:30. I immediately noticed all Francescas tattoos, not to mention all the other symbols. On her head: "Wisdom is inside". The one that gets my attention, however, is on the inside of her arm: "And if I only could, I'd make a deal with god, And I'd get him to swap our places" She got the tattoo during a bad stage in her life.

They asked me if I needed anything from the shop. Although I insisted that I am fine, they brought me a watermelon. They then went for ice cream, "Are you sure we cannot get you an ice cream?"

They ask me what I do during the day. I explain my ritual: Get up with the first pilgrims and see them off, wait for the last one to leave, shower, have breakfast, clean the albergue, study the rule of St Benedict, meditate, go for coffee and wifi, go to the supermarket (depending on time, walk around), have a beer, make a sandwich for lunch, get everything ready for the first pilgrims to arrive at 14:00, read. Supper is either self-prepared or at Maria Jose at the bar.

I miss my wife and children. I watch the neighbors across from the albergue light a fire for a late Sunday braai. I long for our family fellowship around our braai. But, it is also good to be here. The journey inwards is not over yet.

"Behold, I have graven thee upon the palms of my hands.." Isaiah 49:16

DAY 3 IN ALPRIATE

It was 17:00 with temperatures in the high therties when Rebecca stumbled through the door. It was clear, she was in a bad state. I let her sit down, take off her back pack and gave her cold apple juice. She got lost and ran out of water. Two local men on bicycles gave her water and told her about the albergue. They were born in this house which is now an albergue.

Rebecca is a student who camr for the adventure. "I did not expect so much adventure on my first day!" She is overwelmed. She finds a bed and go to lay down.

Then Mario and Pedro arrive. "Is the New Zealand girl ok?" They explained that they found her exausted along the way and gave her water. They often find pilgrims on this part of the way in distress. They look at the house and explain what it looked like when they lived here. No more chickens in the back yard!

Rebecca hears their voices and comes down to thank them. She hugs them. "Come for a drink with us." They return later with their parents. The parents are also shown the house. They are taking Rebecca to the supermarket and then for dinner at their house.

Pedro gives me his number. "If you need anything, ask for the Pacheco's, everybody knows us. Phone me if you need help. If the albergue is full, there is place in my father's house. If you need a place to sleep, just let us know."

As a volunteer you do not get paid. Food is basic (no Banting!). Your luxury is your own private room. I prefer to sleep in the little lounge area, it is cooler there. Why do I do this.....

I was thinking briefly about the expenses. What could I have bought with what this is costing me? A new car, which is definitely not my mindset, or some other fancy gadget that I do not need. (I just love Yann Martel's explenation of a car: "This tiny habitation on wheels,... is a pathetic admission that human life is no more than this: an attempt to feel at home while racing towards oblivion.")

On the camino Ansie and I often discussed the fact that an experience is of more worth to us than possessions. It is possible to live  simple and experience more. It is strange, the more you serve others, the more you are served. The more you care for others the more you are cared for.

ALPRIATE DAY 2

The albergue only opens daily at 14:00 but yesterday with the heat the first pilgrim was there at 13:00. I let him in and made him feel at home. The last two arrived at 19:00!

Yesterday was a complete different mood in the albergue. Everybody, now five pilgrims, were friendly, but kept to themselves. Except for the German couple. She is struggling, for obvious reasons, but they are enjoying and taking their time. This morning they only left at 08:30. I watched them as it took some more time for them to start walking.

Inside I started my own morning ritual when I saw the couple left their toothbrushes in the bathroom. Tough luck, I thought, but then grabbed it and started running to see if I could find them. I did catch up with them, handed them the brushes and wished them a buen camino.

After cleaning the albergue, I came for coffee. Maria Jose is friendly and kindhearted. Last night, with the Germans in the kitchen, I came to eat at her bar. I ordered red wine with my meal, but forgot that a carafe of wine in Portugues is a bottle of wine. She brings me the bottle that she just opened. I explained that I did not mean for a bottle. "No problem, you can come and finish it tomorrow", she replies. "But what if I finish it now?!" "No problem", she again replied. This is my kind of place!

I contemplate on the Rule of St Benedict. Community is so important to him. I experience something of community in this hamlet. The other point that Benedict makes (I suspect Merton picked it up from Benedict); all of life is spiritual, whether you are praying or serving, literally from the kitchen, it is all filled with the presence of Christ. Maria Jose's service is filled with a Benedictine spirituality.

Here in the square, the baker stops twice a day with his bread truck with a distinct blowing of the horn. The truck is opened and you can buy bread and pastries, fresh from the bakery.

Just another day in paradise.

(Ansie is safely back at home.)

ALBERGUE DE ALPRIATE - DAY 1

We had a wonderful time of rest in Porto, Sintra and Lisbon after walking the Camino. Yesterday I started my first day as a hospitalero, or volunteer host, at this small new albergue. The albergue is just 20 km outside of Lisbon, which makes it an ideal first stop for pilgrims starting out on their first day of walking.

Yesterday was the handing over procedure from the lady who is in charge of the non-private albergues in Portugal.

5 Pilgrims were welcomed. We have sleeping space for ten with a small kitchen and bathroom. Last night, four of us went for supper at the bar next door. We had good discussions around the table with the Italian lady understanding very little and the guy from Belgium (68) speaking non stop.

At the end of the night they want to know what work I am doing and were supprised to find out I am a Protestant "priest". I was still sitting outside waiting for the night to cool (21:30 - 28°), when two of the pilgrims came and sat with me. They want to talk to the "priest". It was a good conversation where we spoke about the difference between religion and spirituality.

Relgion is form, spirituality is function. I encouraged them to let the journey awaken them to the mystery of the presence of God.

This morning, with all the pilgrims gone, it was time for cleaning and washing. After meditation I went for coffee just to hear about the tragedy in France. Is this what religion does to you?

I am now awaiting the arrival of the new pilgrims for the day. Who will I meet today whom I can serve with a willing heart?