The albergue only opens daily at 14:00 but yesterday with the heat the first pilgrim was there at 13:00. I let him in and made him feel at home. The last two arrived at 19:00!
Yesterday was a complete different mood in the albergue. Everybody, now five pilgrims, were friendly, but kept to themselves. Except for the German couple. She is struggling, for obvious reasons, but they are enjoying and taking their time. This morning they only left at 08:30. I watched them as it took some more time for them to start walking.
Inside I started my own morning ritual when I saw the couple left their toothbrushes in the bathroom. Tough luck, I thought, but then grabbed it and started running to see if I could find them. I did catch up with them, handed them the brushes and wished them a buen camino.
After cleaning the albergue, I came for coffee. Maria Jose is friendly and kindhearted. Last night, with the Germans in the kitchen, I came to eat at her bar. I ordered red wine with my meal, but forgot that a carafe of wine in Portugues is a bottle of wine. She brings me the bottle that she just opened. I explained that I did not mean for a bottle. "No problem, you can come and finish it tomorrow", she replies. "But what if I finish it now?!" "No problem", she again replied. This is my kind of place!
I contemplate on the Rule of St Benedict. Community is so important to him. I experience something of community in this hamlet. The other point that Benedict makes (I suspect Merton picked it up from Benedict); all of life is spiritual, whether you are praying or serving, literally from the kitchen, it is all filled with the presence of Christ. Maria Jose's service is filled with a Benedictine spirituality.
Here in the square, the baker stops twice a day with his bread truck with a distinct blowing of the horn. The truck is opened and you can buy bread and pastries, fresh from the bakery.
Just another day in paradise.
(Ansie is safely back at home.)
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